The GTA’s Top Rated Electric Strike Repair and Installation

An electric strike is an access control device installed on the door frame, in place of a standard strike plate. It’s essentially a mechanized latch receiver. In a normal door, the strike plate is a static metal plate with a hole that the lock’s latch (or deadbolt) sticks into to keep the door closed. An electric strike, however, has a movable keeper or gate. When it’s energized (given electrical power) or when a signal is sent from an access system, the electric strike’s keeper will momentarily unlock, allowing the door to be pushed open without retracting the latch in the usual way. In practical terms: imagine you have a door with a regular lock or panic bar, and you add an electric strike to the frame. Now you can control that door remotely – for instance, a receptionist pressing a buzzer button, or a card reader system – and the electric strike will release the latch so someone can pull the door open. From the outside, the door stays locked until the strike is activated; from the inside, you can still exit freely (the latch will push the strike’s keeper open). Electric strikes are common for doors with intercom systems, keycard readers, or buzz-in setups. They allow doors to remain locked for security but be opened with an electronic signal. Some electric strikes are “fail-secure” (they stay locked during a power outage, default for security) and some are “fail-safe” (they unlock during power failure, often used for fire exit situations). In summary, an electric strike is the component that lets an electronic access control system interface with a mechanical lock, granting entry without someone physically turning a key in the lock.

In most cases, an electric strike can be retrofitted into a standard commercial door frame without needing an entirely new door. The locksmith or installer will cut into the steel or aluminum door frame where the current strike plate is to fit the electric strike mechanism. Electric strikes come in various sizes and profiles to accommodate different frames and lock types (cylindrical locks, mortise locks, rim panic bars, etc.). A professional will choose a strike that matches your lock’s latch type and size. The installation involves some precise cutting and wiring: the frame is cut or routed to recess the strike unit, and a low-voltage electrical cable is run to the strike (usually through the wall or concealed in the frame). Many commercial metal frames have pre-drilled preparations that can be adjusted for strikes, but even if not, a skilled installer can modify the frame. You don’t necessarily need a new door; the important part is that the door’s lock has a compatible latch. For example, if you have a standard deadbolt, you might instead need to use a latchable lock (since electric strikes typically work with spring latches or panic bar latches, not manual deadbolts that are always extended). Often, businesses pair an electric strike with a keycard system or intercom buzzer on an entrance door – this can almost always be done with existing doors. The locksmith will also install a power supply and wiring for the strike, plus integrate any access control device (card reader, keypad, etc.) you’re using. In short, you don’t need a special door; you just need a competent installer to fit the electric strike and run the connections. After installation, your door will look nearly the same, except the strike plate area is now an electric strike. From the user’s perspective, it will make a satisfying “click” sound when activated, allowing entry.

A properly installed and quality electric strike is very secure. When the strike is in the locked state, it holds the latch or bolt just like a regular strike plate, often with a heavy-duty keeper and stainless steel construction that can withstand a lot of force. Many electric strikes for commercial use have high holding force ratings (for example, some are rated for 1,500 lbs or more of static force), meaning they resist attempts to pry the door open. In terms of reliability: they’re designed to stay locked until they receive the correct electrical signal to release, so there’s no risk that they “just unlock” on their own. Now, regarding power outages, electric strikes can be configured in two main ways: fail-secure or fail-safe. A fail-secure electric strike stays locked (secure) if power is lost – this is common for main security doors, because you don’t want all doors to unlock in a blackout (you might still allow egress by people inside because the internal knob or panic bar will mechanically open the door). A fail-safe strike unlocks when power is cut – this is used in scenarios where safety demands the door unlock (for example, an emergency exit that should default to open for evacuation). Many access control systems are set up so that in a fire alarm, they drop power to strikes to unlock them. The choice depends on the door’s purpose and code requirements. It’s worth noting that even if an electric strike is fail-secure, building codes typically require that doors can still be opened from the inside via mechanical means without power (for life safety). In summary, electric strikes are quite secure and, if chosen and configured correctly, will maintain security during normal conditions and behave appropriately during a power loss (either staying locked or unlocking, based on the fail-safe/fail-secure type). Always discuss with your locksmith or security installer which mode is appropriate for each door to balance security and safety.

While an electrician is certainly capable of running the wires and supplying power, installing an electric strike is best handled (or at least directly supervised) by a locksmith or access control specialist. The reason is that it’s not just an electrical component – it’s also a door hardware component that interacts with the lock and door frame. A locksmith will have the expertise to cut or modify the door frame precisely to fit the strike, ensuring that the mechanical alignment with the lock’s latch is perfect. They’ll also understand the lock and door operation, making sure that once the strike is in place, the door closes snugly and locks properly every time. If it’s misaligned even slightly, you could end up with a door that doesn’t latch reliably (which is a security hazard) or a strike that wears out quickly. Additionally, the locksmith knows the different strike models (for example, whether you need a shim or spacer, or which strike matches a rim panic bar versus a mortise lock). Electricians, on the other hand, are experts in wiring and power but typically not in cutting door frames or adjusting locks. In many cases, a team might work together: the locksmith installs the strike in the frame and the electrician brings power to it and connects it to the access system. Some locksmith companies are full-service for access control, meaning they have staff skilled in both the mechanical and electrical aspects. To be safe, start with a locksmith – they’ll coordinate the electrical work as needed. This ensures the end result is a smoothly operating door that’s secure when locked and opens correctly when you hit that buzzer or card reader.